Nepal Round Two… Don’t Worry, This Time It’s Different.
It’s day one of two weeks that I’ve committed to teaching at a school in Laos, all of the teachers are having a communal dinner, and I am sharing my best restaurant recommendations around Kathmandu with a girl I had quite literally… just met… like 10 minutes ago.
Me: “I’m so jealous you’re going to Nepal, I want to go back”
Her: “You should come”
And the rest is history.
A few days later, I booked a flight. My flight is ‘free’ because I’m using my airline points, but to get to the airport, I have to take a boat for 18 hours over two days on a river from Laos to Thailand and then take a train for 14 hours. So really… how ‘free’ is it? But this is where the adventure lies, taking the unconventional route. This was the best option because I had an awkward number of days where my visa was going to expire, but I didn’t want to fly to Nepal too early because then ill be risking my visa there expiring before I was ready to leave there too.
The first time I was in Nepal, I mistakenly wore a singlet top into the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu, instantly regretting my decision as men looked at me, licking their lips and making inappropriate comments. I was so overwhelmed by the culture shock and anxious about my own safety that I threw up. My thoughts were spiralling, I’d quit my job to go and travel for a few months, and I was already throwing up from my anxiety. But the crazy thing is, the more uncomfortable situations you put yourself in, the bigger your comfort zone will grow, and my comfort zone has grown so much since my first trip to Nepal!
If you’ve read my first blog, you’ll remember that my first time in Nepal was chaotic and eventful. I decided that this time I wanted to experience it differently. The two girls id met volunteering, and I re-grouped in Pokhra with zero gear and zero idea. We cluelessly walk into an office building and ask if we can get a permit to hike the Annapurna Circuit. They advise us that the trail is about to close for the monsoon season, so not to make any delays. We spend the afternoon walking the streets, buying and hiring everything we will need. You can quite literally arrive in Nepal with nothing and have everything you need by the end of the day for 1/4 of the price of buying it at home, and the quality is fine. (Except for the Gore-Tex, buy any wet-weather stuff from a real store.)
We decide that we aren’t going to take a guide or porters, so we pack the absolute essentials into our bags, trying to be as light as possible. “Do you think taking three T-shirts is excessive for twelve days?” I ask the girls as I’m trying to cut a bar of soap in half. I took only the absolute essentials and then completely overloaded my bag with camera gear. We set off with our backpacks and a screenshot of the trail map on our iPhones.
I felt light. I felt free. I felt so grateful that I had done the scary thing and come to Nepal that first time because it was a decision that changed my life and evolved my personality. I felt calm and I felt safe, I had everything I could ever need in my bag. We had no time frame and were in no rush, the goal: enjoy the mountains. Something I didn’t feel like I was able to do on my first trip. We would hike during the day and stop for a nice, long lunch, and then when we were ready to settle down for the night, we would knock on the door of the tea house that had the best vibes from the outside and ask if we could stay the night. I struggle travelling in a group; to me, it’s necessary that I spend at least some time alone during the day, but it worked out perfectly. The girls would speed ahead with our new friends, and I would linger behind, slowly making my way through the trail and stopping to take photos. I was hiking so slowly, enjoying every second because when I left Nepal the first time, I didn’t know when I would be back, and now, after this trip, I also don’t know if it will be the last time. When it was time to connect again as a group, we would spend the whole time laughing so hard that we could barely get our words out. When I was planning on quitting my job and first travelling, I spent so much energy stressing about the unknown… If only I knew how much fun I was going to have and all the amazing people I was going to meet!
After five days of sweating through my clothes and re-wearing them, I hear rumours of a hot shower. I’m standing outside shivering on a small cement square surrounded by mud, naked, watching as the ice-cold water sprays out of a make-shift shower head. Any second now, it will start to get warm, come on! I believe! I look up and I’m mesmerised by the view of the snowy mountains, this has to be the coolest gross shower I’ve ever been in. I lose hope of the water ever turning warm and hold my breath as I dunk myself into the icy water. I begin laughing to myself, thinking back to when I was in high school, I had covered my entire bedroom wall in A4 printed pictures of mountains. It was always my dream to see the world and hang out in the mountains, and here I am… covered in goose bumps, taking my first shower in five days while I gaze at the incredible view, a real-life snapshot of a landscape that could’ve been on my wall.
The hike was supposed to take at least twelve days, but we ended up finishing it in just eight. I would have been happy to keep going for even longer, but I had to rush back to Kathmandu to give my passport to the Chinese embassy for my visa to be approved in time. The group kept going on another hike, and sadly, I had to make the journey back on my own. There were some issues with flights and landslides, so I had to take two twelve-hour public buses. Times like this, I reach into my toolbox and pull out mental techniques to get me through. I often think of Vipassana and that if I could sit for 10 days meditating, I could most definitely survive a long bus ride. I sat for almost the entire drive with my backpack on my lap, staring out the window as the man next to me constantly harassed me. He kept poking my arm in an attempt to make conversation, asking me question after question as I ignored him. He facetimed multiple people, showing them that he was sitting next to me, and then, when he finally gave up, he searched on TikTok “girls walking up stairs in leggings” and watched that for the next hour. Times like this, it sucks being a woman, stuck on a bus with no one to help me and nowhere to go. I was so exhausted from hiking that I didn’t even really care too much; I just sat staring out the window pretending that he didn’t exist.
I’m so glad that I made the spontaneous decision to go back to Nepal. I feel so grateful, and I know this story won’t be the last.
Nepal
May 2024