The Monks of Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang may be one of the only places in the world where everyone’s day starts at 5 am rain hail or shine. This ancient city is located in Laos and is home to many historically significant Buddhist temples. Its rich culture and traditional architecture has earned the city a place on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Each morning around 3:30 am, the monks begin their day in quiet devotion through prayer and meditation. By dawn, they emerge from their temples, barefoot wearing their orange robes. They carry only their alms bowl in preparation to receive their daily offerings. The monks live entirely on donations so what they are given each morning is their only food. Locals and tourists sit patiently on small plastic chairs with rice, biscuits, vegetables or whatever they have to offer. The monks walk in unison down the street with their heads bowed and their bowls open.
These bowls are one of the only items the monks own as simplicity and detachment are core to their way of life. When one becomes a monk they must leave behind most of their possessions even if they temporarily ordain, they can either give away their belongings or store them with family. But once they arrive at the monastery they are generally only allowed the following items:
Three robes
An alms bowl (for receiving food)
A belt or cloth strap
A razor
A needle and thread (for repairing robes)
Soap or small items for hygiene
A bag or small container for carrying these items
In modern practice, many monks also have simple items like:
A notebook or books (for studying scriptures)
Umbrella or fan
Simple footwear
Sometimes even a mobile phone or watch
However, these are often donated by the community and only used when necessary. The monks do not buy or sell items themselves, and any possessions they have are supposed to be used only in the service of their monastic duties and spiritual development.
In Laos, 60% of the population practices Buddhism so it is a rite of passage for most Lao boys to spend time at a monastery. It is a tradition that every male is expected to live as a novice monk for at least three months at some point in their life. It is common for poor families or families living in remote villages to send their sons to live at the monastery where they can receive an education, food and a safe place to sleep all for free. Many of these children spend their whole childhood living in these temples, often far away from their families. Some may think this is robbing the children of being able to enjoy their youth but on the flip side, the young girls of these poor families are entirely excluded from this path. There is no other comparable system for young girls to receive a free education and girls are not permitted to ordain as novice monks in Theravada Buddhism which is the dominant tradition in Laos. In Rural areas of Laos only 26% of children complete lower secondary school and with the young boys pursuing education away from home, families often rely on the daughters to assist with domestic and agricultural work which pulls them away from their studies. With limited education opportunities comes a lack of independence for these girls causing them to seek security and stability through an early marriage. UNICEF found that 33% of women aged 20-24 were married before the age of 18! Furthermore, the legal age for consent is only 15 adding to the venerability and danger these girls face.
Some organisations are working to help provide all children with a free education, this especially benefits girls. I spent two weeks volunteering teaching at the Saelaos project which provides free English lessons to remote villages. The girls can choose to attend these classes and are always enthusiastic to learn, I hope that programs like this keep working to empower women.
While opportunities remain unequal for girls, the widespread influence of Buddhism offers a powerful foundation for compassion and community. Boys raised in the monastic tradition grow up immersed in teachings of generosity, humility, and non-attachment. These values ripple outward into everyday life and reveal themselves in small, profound moments.
One morning, while watching the almsgiving, I noticed a group of young children sitting by the street with their hands pressed together in prayer and holding empty baskets. As the monks passed, some paused and gently placed food from their bowls into the children’s basket.
These monks, who live with almost nothing and rely entirely on the kindness of others, still found space to give. It was a humbling reminder that compassion doesn’t wait for abundance it simply flows. Despite the hardships faced by many here, there is still so much compassion, generosity, and richness. These moments really made me pause and reflect.
